When tourists think of Belgium, the cities that most often come to mind are Brussels and Bruges. Travelers typically arrive at Brussels Airport Zaventem, explore the city of Brussels for a few days, and then hop on a train from there to visit Bruges before returning home. Few people realize that during their journey between Brussels and Bruges, they pass right through the historic city of Ghent (or Gent in Flemish).
Ghent, with its vibrant student culture, regular local festivities, and perfect blend of medieval and contemporary architecture, is so much more than just a stop along a train route. This is the city in which I was based throughout my Fulbright year, and I couldn’t imagine another place to call home. Or, another location to explore.
One day in the depths of the dark Belgian winter, characterized by its bitter wind chills, I sat in my apartment wondering where was the best place in the city to grab a hot chocolate. After contemplating this thought, I remembered that when I moved to Belgium, I had purchased Derek Blyth’s 500 Hidden Secrets of Ghent. As I rifled through the book searching for a location to buy a warm drink, a thought popped into my head. Why don’t I try to explore all 500 places?! And so would begin my six-month quest.
After scouring the list of 500 secrets, I easily checked off 30 places I had already discovered. The remainder of my journey took me to the far corners of Ghent and everything in between. From the renovated industrial area of Dok Noord in the north to the Miljoenenkwartier neighborhood in the south, and from the calming Blaarmeersen park in the west to the Dampoort station in the east, I was determined to leave no stone unturned. Sometimes, I recruited my friends to join me on my adventures in discovering Ghent, but other times I ventured out on my own. Everytime I found a new secret garden or caught a glimpse of eye-catching street art, it was exhilarating.
In the end, I completed almost half of Blythe’s 500 secrets. Living on a budget and knowing my limited suitcase capacity meant I couldn’t eat and shop my way through Ghent. But, I certainly tried my best! I also never needed to stay in one of the 20 hotels that Blythe recommended, and in the 9 years since the book’s publication more than 20 stores and restaurants had permanently closed their doors. So, I like to think I did pretty well!
Of course, after exploring what seems like every corner of Ghent since the winter (or September since this journey truly began the moment I moved to Ghent), I have found other secret gems throughout the city that had not made Blyth’s list. From Osteria Delicati (where I could put my Italian language skills to good use) to Jenny (what may be the coolest location to take a spin class) to Ma’s Bakery (where the cinnamon rolls and milkshakes are delicious, and one of the owners is also from New Jersey!), Ghent never disappoints. The city is full of small wonders around every corner!
Nevertheless, the real hidden secret of Ghent is something completely unexpected: my laundromat (or wassalon). Yep, you read that correctly. A laundromat is Ghent’s ultimate hidden secret. Hear me out.
When I first discovered that my apartment didn’t have a washing machine, I was a bit disappointed. This meant that every week I had to drag a trolley full of my laundry across the cobblestone streets to the laundromat around the corner. I would have to wait for an open machine, watch as my laundry went through the cleaning cycle, and then drag it all the way back home (even in the rain!). However, what I didn’t realize at the time was that I would come to look forward to this weekly excursion.
I initially assumed these trips to the laundromat would allow me to catch up on some reading, but how wrong I was. Instead, there was rarely a moment of quiet. Often, someone would strike up a conversation with me that would last the span of my laundry cycle. In December, I was even invited to a Christmas party by someone I had met there. By the spring, my Dutch lessons allowed me to communicate with an elderly Flemish woman who was curious to learn why an American was living in Ghent. When our questions and answers became too complicated, another patron eagerly jumped in to translate. Other times, it was interesting to sit back and listen to the plethora of languages spoken around me, truly a microcosm of Belgium as a whole.
The sense of community created in my laundromat was entirely unanticipated but completely welcoming. It wasn’t unusual when a woman asked me to watch her baby for a few minutes while she chased her energetic and curious toddler out of the door. Nor was it strange when one week in January the token machine in the laundromat wouldn’t accept my bill, and a man kindly offered to give me coins to use. So, when a few weeks later another woman in the laundromat needed a few extra coins, I didn’t mind giving her the change. That was just what we did. In essence, my weekly trips to the laundromat allowed me to connect with Belgians from all walks of life, to experience kindness from complete strangers, and to have a sense of belonging. A truly unexpected place.
So, with my Fulbright journey and 500 secrets quest officially over, I urge every traveler in Belgium to get off the train in Ghent. Explore what I have come to recognize as Belgium’s hidden gem. After all, you never know what secrets lie around the corner.
Giuliana Ferrara was a 2022-2023 Fulbright English Teaching Assistant to Belgium. As a member of Bucknell University’s Class of 2022, Giuliana earned a bachelor’s degree in both International Relations and Italian Studies. In addition to her work inside the classroom as an ETA to Ghent University, Giuliana learned some Dutch and engaged with the Belgian community more broadly through volunteer work.
Articles are written by Fulbright grantees and do not reflect the opinions of the Fulbright Commission, the grantees’ host institutions, or the U.S. Department of State.